I don’t know when or how traveling to my Bucket List locations became my reality. Last year, during my first quarter at UW, I sat in Kane 130, the largest lecture hall at my university. Sitting among the six hundred and ninety-nine other students of ARCH 150: Appreciation of Architecture, I was giddy to start learning more about the historical buildings I could only dream of visiting one day. Little did I know that we would mostly be learning about mud and sticks and how pretty much every early settlement used mud and sticks to build their houses in different ways. Soon, the seven-hundred students dwindled down to maybe one-hundred (if we count generously). As the quarter progressed, we began to move away from mud and sticks (but they are very important so don’t forget that) and into the impressive architecture of Western Europe. One of the buildings discussed in lecture was the Santiago de Compostela, a towering and intricate cathedral in northern Spain. I made a promise to myself that one day, I would see this building. How could I know that I would actually fulfill that promise to myself? And a year later, no less. Flash-forward: every morning at 9:20 I step onto Calle Ancha and onto a small part of the Camino de Santiago. The Camino is a pilgrimage which began in the 9th century that has two routes, the Spanish way and the French way. Pilgrims would walk hundreds of miles for months in pursuit of salvation. The end location? Santiago de Compostela or Finisterre. Over the last twenty years or so, the Camino has experienced a resurgence as tourists have taken an interest in the Camino. Walking through León, you are bound to cross a Camino walker or two. Shops around the city sell Camino de Santiago souvenirs. Every day that I pass by the brass shells laid in the street marking the way, I thought about Santiago de Compostela. On Saturday November 10th, 2018, I boarded yet another bus. Destination? Santiago de Compostela. After four hours driving through the misty and mountainous countryside of northern Spain, we made it to Galicia and the town of Santiago. Our tour guide, Javier led us around the town, describing the important buildings and historical relevance of the place. Eventually, we reached the Plaza in front of the Cathedral. Walking in, the Cathedral is almost blocked from view by the building next to it. I walk to the center of the Plaza with my back to the Cathedral. When I reach the final shell marking the Camino, I turn around and finally see the Santiago de Compostela. To say that the distorted pictures on the projector in Kane 130 did not do the massive building justice is an understatement. After taking in the sheer size of the Cathedral, we head in for a tour. The altar is so clad in gold that it almost hurts to look at. Angels hold the glowing ceiling up, protecting Saint James who stands in the center of the altar. Underneath the altar is a chest which is said to contain relics of Saint James. Outside, a line forms. It is tradition to enter the altar and hug Saint James. I hop in line and climb the stairs into the immaculate altar and hug the silver shoulders of Saint James. The gems laid in the silver wiggle under my fingers and I panic, thinking somehow I have broken this historical and religious relic (it’s okay, I didn’t they’re just a little loose, someone should really fix that).
After touring the inside of the Cathedral, we meet up with a tour guide and climb one hundred stairs to heaven. In Spain, no building is permitted to be built taller than the town's cathedral. The cathedral’s height is representative of it reaching into the heavens and connecting with God. When we exit the stairwell, and walk onto the sloping roof, it becomes clear why this is a representation of Heaven (as if the massive gold angels weren’t). The wind whips my hair and the clouds hang low with rain. The town sprawls out in each direction and the mountains cower in the distance. When the wind becomes too strong we head back to the Earth but my mind was still in the clouds. Having seen one of the Camino destinations, I was quite content but there was more in store. The next day, we clambered back onto the bus and drove further north to the End of the World. At the time of the Camino's origin, it was still believed that the Earth was flat. Because of this belief, people who reached the coast of northern Spain believed they could see the end of the world. This belief led some pilgrims to continue on their journey from Santiago to Finisterre, where they could see the End of the World and receive their salvation. Finisterre is a small lookout point with a large lighthouse, a restaurant, and a quaint souvenir shop. Finisterre is also sloping cliffs, crashing waves, and a horizon that continues for as far as you can see. We arrive shortly before sunset and spread out on the cliffs. A few clouds block the sun and the water blends into the grey sky. As we sit with our feet hanging over the rocks, the clouds clear and the sun unleashes a golden light brighter than the altar in Santiago de Compostela. The cliffs turn from a dreary grey to warm earth. The longer we stay the better the sunset gets. I sit breathing in the ocean air -PNW coast I miss you- and watching the sunset. In a place like this, how can you not believe in God? Who could have created something so peaceful? Javier calls for us to return to the bus. I stand up, resignedly, and walk away, looking over my shoulder at the End of the World.
1 Comment
Mom
11/30/2018 09:37:17 am
Each post to your blog gets better and better. With this one I felt like I was right there with you sitting on those rocks watching the sunset (even though you and I both know, I would be sitting way back from the edge. hahaha). When you explained how heavenly the place was I almost started to cry. I really wish I could have experienced that with you! ❤️
Reply
Leave a Reply. |
Author:
|